Kikunoya

Rather than leading with cloying sweetness, the traditional confections at Kikunoya in Tsukishima 3-chome showcase the natural aromas of their ingredients and clean, well-defined seasonings. Sliding open the shop's door reveals an inviting spread, with mitarashi dango making an ideal starting point. The glaze leans savory rather than overly sweet, delivering a pronounced soy sauce finish with a delicate char. Chewing through the pleasantly firm skewered rice dumplings releases a satisfying depth of flavor.

For a textural contrast, the karinto manju is another staple. Its crisp fried exterior pairs against gentle sweetness inside, and its modest price makes it hard to resist picking up along with other treats. The shop also prepares everyday, unpretentious sweets such as mame daifuku—balancing firm mochi, savory beans, and lightly sweetened bean paste—and domyoji rice cakes wrapped in salted cherry leaves that highlight the filling within.

The compact, easy-to-eat ohagi rice balls come in both textured coarse bean paste (tsubuan) and silky smooth red bean paste (koshian). Seasonally, signs out front might advertise kashiwa mochi filled with smooth bean paste, coarse bean paste, or savory miso paste. A pack of chewy, freshly steamed sekihan (red bean sticky rice) is another welcome counter option. Since popular sweets can sell out by late afternoon, arriving earlier in the day is best if you have a specific treat in mind.